SELF-PORTRAIT'S FIRST RUNWAY SHOW WAS A TESTAMENT TO MODERN FEMININITY

Author:fashion Posted:2017-2-13 15:25 Monday Categories:Fashion

A look from the Self-Portrait fall 2017 collection. Photo: Courtesy of Self-Portrait

A look from the Self-Portrait fall 2017 collection. 

In the four years since Self-Portrait broke onto the fashion scene, the contemporary label has attracted widespread acclaim from the fashion industry, in addition to an impressive roster of high-profile fans that include Beyoncé, Kristen Stewart and Michelle Obama, plus the entire (slightly less high-profile) Fashionista office. 

Founder and creative director Han Chong's Fall 2017 collection — his first proper runway show on the New York Fashion Week calendar after seasons of sticking to a presentation format — stayed true to the brand's DNA of marrying clean lines with modern silhouettes and textures, and was a demonstration of Self-Portrait's greatest strength: its ability to toe the line between adjectives. Chong's designs prove that it's possible to be feminine without being too girly, modern without being unwearable. "She is individual and bold," wrote designer Han Chong in the show notes, "and she always maintains a certain irreverence."

All in all, Fall 2017 proved to be an ode to the brand's penchant for using a variety of fabrics, only with a new focus on separates. Sculptural ruffles made their way onto everything from cozy knit sweaters to a crepe wrap dress, while experimentation with sheer fabrics — a brand signature — manifested in the form of plenty of peekaboo lace. However, the collection truly included something for all tastes: party-ready minidresses done up in crushed velvet, smoking jackets in a variety of colors, black shorts cut from vegan leather (an ethical alternative we're happy to see on the runway) and knitted neck gaiters that gave the effect of a very chic neck brace. "I design thinking what women actually want, and then I design a wardrobe for them," said Chong to Fashionista in a 2015 interview. Two years later, this still very much seems to be the case.

Models took the runway in footwear from Self-Portrait's fall collaboration with Robert Clergerie — a continuation of the brands' spring capsule. Block heeled boots and pumps created endlessly leggy looks when paired with opaque black tights, worn with a majority of looks from the collection. On the beauty front, makeup by Tom Pecheux riffed on a sexy, smoky eye with a pop of copper liner — which was, in fact, a matte metallic lipstick courtesy of Maybelline (out later this spring). Double-duty — whether in the form of beauty or wearable pieces that translate from day to night or season to season — never looked so good.


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